As we sat in the back of our comfortable Toyota Camry, Jeff whispered "Do you realize that they are all driving British geared cars - steering wheel on the right - on the RIGHT side of the road?" Oh my! This sure topped driving in China, Vietnam, or Cambodia. When Burma was a British colony, people drove on the left. After independence, the locals silently protested anything colonial, and, as a result, started driving on the right. We decided to glance at the landscape around us rather than the traffic ahead of us. As Myanmar grows and Westernizes, I wonder if the drivers will come to their safety senses and choose either American cars/right side or British cars/left side!
We packed a full day of sights into our day in Yangon. Our first stop was the sobering Taukkyan War Cemetery, a few kilometres from the city centre. The Cemetery is meticulously maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC). It is home to 6,400 graves of British and Commonwealth soldiers who died fighting in Burma during WWII, as well as the Rangoon Memorial, which contains the names of 27,000 soldiers with no known grave. There were only a handful of visitors on the site, and we took our time walking through the rows of graves, noting that the soldiers came from the U.K., India, and Africa. The Magen David on one grave alerted us to the fact that Sergeant Levin of the Royal Signals died in 1946, a year after the end of the War. He must have been wounded during the late battles of the War, and succumbed to his injuries months later. The CWGC database lists his full name as Arnold Elkin Levin, husband of Wilhelmina Mary Levin of Leicester. Our guide mentioned that there are other war cemeteries throughout Myanmar, including one that honours the fallen Japanese Imperial Soldiers.
Back in the city, we paid a visit to the Musmeah Yeshua Synagogue, the last remaining Jewish house of worship in the country. The Synagogue was built by the Baghdadi Jews at the end of the 19th century in the same style and tradition as their Mumbai shuls. Before WWII, the Jewish community numbered 2,500. Today there are only a handful left. Tourist donations are helping to maintain the synagogue in excellent condition. There were a lot of American tourists visiting when we arrived. Several of them asked us which part of the States we were from. When we told them we were from Hong Kong, they looked perplexed and quietly avoided us!
I'm always curious about ordinary life in Asian countries. As Jeff was checking out the exterior of the synagogue, I wandered down an alley to catch a slice of Third World Myanmar. My camera (and a greeting of Mangalaba) was met with a big smile from a gorgeous woman who was washing her family's clothes.
There are quite a few Colonial buildings in downtown Yangon, including City Hall, completed in 1936. It is near other famous landmarks, including the central Mosque and the ubiquitous Independence Monument, which commemorates Burmese independence from Britain in 1948.
In the heart of the main square lies the Sule Pagoda, in all its golden glory. The Pagoda is believed to enshrine a strand of hair of the Buddha that Buddha himself is said to have given to two Burmese merchant brothers. (We have noted parts of the Buddha in shrines all over Asia!) The site is packed with locals performing their daily prayers, and with ethnic minorities from all over the country. Burmese dress traditionally - both men and women wear sarong-like longyis, long skirts made of colourful cotton cloth. They also paint their faces with thanaka, a sunscreen made from ground bark.
Unfortunately, the holy Pagoda is not without its kitchy side. Buddhas surrounded by haloes of flashing neon lights and Russian-style painted dolls (yes, I bought two).
After a late lunch (no descriptions of Burmese food in this blog - we were served nondescript tourist fare twice a day), we visited a sensational 65-meter-long reclining Buddha. This Buddha is housed in a huge shed that resembles an airplane hangar. The original Buddha, built in 1907, fell into disrepair. The current statue was completed in 1974. It is almost as monumental as the golden Wat Pho Buddha in Bangkok - with far fewer tourists obscuring the view!
The holiness of this place was lost on us - Jeff nicknamed it the Shwedagon Amusement Park. The vast entrance reminded me of Las Vegas. There were amusing statues all over. The main Pagoda was beyond lavish, as were the smaller temples scattered on the concrete grounds.
Originally, there were forests of beautiful palm trees surrounding the Pagoda - today, there is only ONE remaining lonely tree! Because it was the "winter" season (only 30 degrees), the Buddhas were draped in scarves. Many of these wraps had the words "Asia Wings" on them - their commercial sponsor!! Most of the Buddhas had flashing neon haloes, which gave them a Las Vegas hue. 
And in the middle of the main square stood a large ATM next to a sign advertising free WiFi (both rarities in Myanmar). The four wide staircases leading up to the main plaza were crowded with souvenir stands. We were gobsmacked! 
We flew to Bagan early the following morning with Air Mandalay. According to airline ratings.com, Air Mandalay is the only airline in Myanmar to remain accident free. (I searched for this information today, many months after our visit, preferring to remain naive and trusting during the trip!) Yangon's domestic airline terminal resembles an old railway station, but everything ran efficiently, and we arrived in Bagan on time.
As we were driving to our hotel, our (new) guide noted that we hadn't yet reserved a sunrise balloon ride. She guaranteed that it would be a memorable experience. In fact, our travel agent in Hong Kong had highly recommended this, too, but owing to Jeff's fear of heights, we had originally declined. Our guide said there was still time to sign up, so at the hotel I cautiously withdrew $300US from the formidable-looking ATM, and registered for the ride the following morning. A few words about currency in Myanmar: US dollars are accepted/preferred everywhere, but only brand new bills with large-faced images! Used and wrinkled notes are rejected!
Our hotel, the Aureum Palace, is a luxurious-looking resort right in the middle of the ancient temples. We had our own bungalow, and the service was first-class. Over the next few days, little things began to go "wrong", serving to emphasize that we were in a five-star complex in an out-of-the way city in the Third World. WiFi and air-conditioning worked intermittently. The toilet/shower were in the same room as the clothes closet. But overall, the resort was lovely.
After checking in, we began our tour of the larger temples and stupas. We climbed the Shwezigon pagoda to get a good view of the countryside. Not a cloud in the sky!
Then on to the Kubyauk Gyi and Ananda, where we watched an artisan restoring a fresco.
We had lunch alfresco next to a group of monks!
After touring more pagodas (yes, we were rather templed-out), we had a treat in store for us - a donkey ride through the local villages. My seat at the back was very comfortable, but poor Jeff struggled to uncramp his long legs facing the front. People live primitively in the countryside, albeit in the beautiful shadow of the temples. Houses are made of bamboo - but there are no bamboo (or other) forests in the area. Our guide explained that bamboo is grown near Mandalay. The bamboo is tied together and floated down the Irrawaddy River to other places in Myanmar. At the end of the ride, our guide asked if we would like to do this again tomorrow, and Jeff pleadingly said "no thank you!"
Another climb - Shwesandaw Pagoda - for a dramatic sunset before returning to the hotel for dinner by the infinity pool, surrounded by illuminated temples!
The alarm woke me at 5 a.m. Time for the balloon ride! This had better be worth the extravagance I had shelled out, I thought, as I crept along the dark path to the main entrance of the hotel. A few dozen other intrepid travellers were already gathered waiting for the bus. Two ladies from New York befriended me, and while we were on the rickety bus, one of them regaled us with a story of her first, ill-fated balloon ride. She and her then-husband took a ride at a balloon fair in New Jersey. As they were embarking, her husband pointed out a tear in the balloon to the pilot. The pilot just shrugged and up they went ... soon to begin losing altitude ... and landing (albeit safely) ... in the middle of nowhere ... whereupon they had to drag the balloon and its basket about a mile to a road ... and waited over an hour for someone to rescue them! As if I wasn't nervous enough!
I am pleased to report that Balloons Over Bagan is an A-1 professional organization. When we arrived at the launch site, we were served coffee and biscuits while the pilots (British and Australian) and their numerous staff (local employees) prepared the balloons. We were given clear instructions by the chief, who, as it turned out, was also the pilot of my balloon. It was an incredible sight to watch dozens of balloons being laid out over the dark field, and then fired up. When they righted the baskets, we clambered in. Do I look as terrified as I was feeling??
Lift-off was delightful, and the ride was tranquil and exhilarating! We all relaxed and began snapping our photos. Most of the time, I turned my camera off and just enjoyed the thrilling experience. We soared over temples and over dams and irrigated fields, while watching the sun slowly rise in the East. Absolutely magical!
The hour aloft passed so quickly. We landed very softly in a designated field where staff had already prepared a champagne and croissants breakfast for us. This is The Life!
Local villagers greeted us, too. We bought some souvenirs from them, and were also reassured that any leftover food would be distributed among them.
The balloon ride ranks among my top-10 lifetime adventures!
It was still early morning when we returned to the hotel. Jeff and our guide were waiting for me, and off we went to explore more of Bagan. First stop a (toddy) palm "factory" where the cow turned the mill. Very primitive, but the candy was delicious! They also produce palm oil and distill palm liquor.
The indigenous village that we visited was the poorest place we had ever seen, except for the huts of Ecuador. By comparison, Bagan seemed almost cosmopolitan! Thatched houses with no electricity. We didn't see any men (they were in the meagre fields), but the women were hard at work, and the dirty children were playing. They were very happy to see visitors. I'd love to revisit in twenty years to see if the lives of these people have changed.
Our main destination was Taung Kalat (737 meters above sea level), the sacred mountain near Mount Popa. A Buddhist monastery is located at the summit of this volcanic plug. Our guide (in the pink and purple longyi) warned us that this site is infested with Macaque monkeys. Not my favourite animals - one of Hong Kong's best hiking parks, the Shing Mun Reservoir, is also filled with these greedy, bold creatures. Before we began our ascent (777 steps), we noticed women selling something in cone-shaped paper. Monkey food - or, as we mistakenly heard our guide pronounced it - monkey poop!
There were the usual non-sacred-looking colourful figures as we climbed. And more Buddhas surrounded by flashing neon lights.
Late in the afternoon, we were driven to the Irrawaddy River. This river is still a vital transportation route. We saw several rafts bearing bamboo heading south from Mandalay. Jeff's new friends were fascinated with his iPad.
Dinner and a cultural show. Music, puppets and dancers. Having woken at 5 a.m. for my balloon ride, we were so tired that we ate quickly and stayed for about an hour of the show before begging our guide to take us back to the hotel.
Another day, another temple! When the Mongols threatened to overrun Bagan towards the end of the 13th century, many people fled the area, including the devout who built a cave temple on the outskirts of the city to protect themselves from the invaders. A dark and mysterious place.No more temples please! The rest of our day was spent in Pakokku, about 30 km from Bagan across the Irrawaddy River. Two weeks before we arrived, a modern suspension bridge began operating across the river, enabling us to reach Pakokku in under an hour. Our guide told us that previously it took FOUR HOURS to get there!
Pakokku is a bustling town, filled with beautiful markets and many cottage industries. Many of these are housed within a combination factory-home. They reminded me of the original Lender's Bagel Bakery, located at the end of the driveway between Uncle Harry's and Cousin Sam's houses - when we visited, we all took turns rolling the bagels and watching them bake in the wood-fired oven.
Cheroot (cigar) factory.
Slippers (sandals) workshop. These shoes are very popular in Myanmar. I bought a pair ... they still smell like glue. The treads will last forever. (Like the huarache sandals of the 60s - Surfin' USA) I was impressed with the photos of the graduates. At least in this family's case, education seems to be a way forward from the old way of life.
Textiles. Longyis and blankets.
The central market. Our guide bought a new longyi at this stall. $5US.
We actually had a few hours to relax at the hotel before dinner! The manicured grounds are interesting ... filled with kitchy statues. Bambi in Burma?
Many locals were up in arms when the resort was built. The builders erected a 200-foot tower that gives a 360 degree view of Bagan (an alternative to the balloon ride). A TripAdvisor reviewer from Vancouver claimed that "this modern architecture competes with the centuries old structures and should never have been built". 
Dinner next to the infinity pool - soaking up the atmosphere!
The trip had been going so well ... no TIA moments (aside from the disappointment of the Shwedagon Pagoda). Until the following morning. Our return flight to Yangon was scheduled to depart Bagan at 11 a.m. Guide and driver arrived at 9 to fetch us. Not our original pair - they were on another assignment, so we got the guide's "sister" who spoke no English at all. The airport is less than 10 minutes from the hotel. When we arrived at the airport, we followed the guide into the very basic terminal. I headed to the Air Mandalay desk, but the guide pointed to the Air KBZ service counter. We were informed that due to a dust storm in Yangon, all flights were delayed two hours. The guide wanted to leave us at the airport but we insisted that she bring us back to the hotel. Two hours later we returned to the airport ... yes, another delay. I had lost it by this time. I screamed at the uncomprehending guide - "why didn't you check with the airport before bringing us here"! She was ready to cry. Back to the hotel lobby to rest again in comfort. On the third visit to the airport, our KBZ plane had finally arrived. The flight was pleasant - soft Christmas music playing in the background (February 3rd). I had almost calmed down by the time we landed three hours late.
Cherry, our Yangon guide, was waiting for us. She was eager to shlep us around more temples and outdoor sites in the 30+ heat. We had reached our touring limit and we were very hungry. We asked her to bring us to the historic Strand Hotel, where we partook of afternoon tea. Perfect antidote to the morning's adventures.
After fortifying ourselves, we went shopping! Thank you Julian (via Kathy, of course) for recommending the most interesting shop in Yangon - Augustine's! Fantastic stuff! We walked out of the shop an hour later with our goodies wrapped in bubble wrap and brown paper, knowing that we would arrive in Hong Kong looking like refugees. When we got into the car, Cherry asked us what we would like to do for the rest of the evening, since our flight was only scheduled to leave at 1 a.m. We informed her that according to our itinerary, our HK travel agent had booked us into the Traders Hotel until 11 p.m. She gave us a blank look and told us that her itinerary did not indicate this. However, she dutifully phoned her office and they confirmed our reservation. We checked into the hotel at 6 p.m. just in time for the complimentary happy hour for "special" guests like ourselves. Lots of food, lots of wine. Followed by a few hours of rest before our red-eye to Hong Kong.
Myanmar's military dictatorship officially ended in 2011. During that regime, the country was cut off from most of the world. In the brief time since then, we noticed a large leap forward, helped along by modern technology. Yangon has a contemporary bustle to it, and many European and Asian businesses have established themselves there. New buildings and large corporate signs are everywhere. In terms of modernization, Jeff and I ranked Myanmar above Cambodia, but below Vietnam.
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