Here are some photos:
Porcupine Falls Hike
(coffee and desserts at Neo Café after the hike)
Jeff on his way to bridge.
Dale's boot camp.
Crepes (street side kiosk) that melt in your mouth.
Delicious grilled tilapia at Lert Ros.
We did have our share of adventures, in spite of just settling into a routine. The previous year, we had a lot of fun on a guided bike ride in the countryside. This time, we decided to venture farther away - to Lamphun, about 20 km south of Chiang Mai. We met our guide in Chiang Mai's old town at Grasshopper Adventures, and set off through the traffic (scary stuff) to the train station. Before that day, we didn't even know there were local trains in Thailand! We met two French families on board. They had taken the kids out of school and were home schooling them while they travelled through Asia. What a great experience! 
On another fine day, we rented bikes from our hotel and went exploring. I followed Jeff along the local streets (he was used to it by now, having biked to bridge three times a week). Our first destination was up a steep hill to the Neo Café, a perfect place for refreshments. So far, so good. After refreshments, we continued on to the Chiang Mai Zoo. We locked the bikes, and then spent quite a few hours walking around the zoo (it's built on a steep hill). It was 30+ degrees, and there was very little shade. And true to form, we were too frugal to pay for the zoo bus from station to station! 
Our misadventure occurred when we got back to our bikes. The combination lock wouldn't open!! I ran up to the ticket office (just about to close at 5 pm), and told the cashier what had happened. I pictured us sleeping with the orang-utans! Two security men soon arrived, and spent at least half an hour trying to open the lock. When that failed, they painstakingly cut through the layers of wire inside the lock. Our saviours wouldn't accept any monetary thanks from us. Such is the Thai/Buddhist way. Just another example of how truly kind they all are.At the end of four weeks in Chiang Mai, we took a bus to Chiang Rai. I had visited Chiang Rai a few years ago on an AWA trip (blog, Nov.-Dec. 2012), but it was Jeff's first time there.
The first day, we hired a taxi to take us to two amazing sites: the White Temple and the Baan Dam (Black House). The White Temple is psychedelic, like someone's acid trip. 
It was interesting to see an artist at work inside the main temple - I wonder which cartoon character he was adding to the mural?
The Black House is a series of wood buildings, built like a camp. The architect was a disciple of the man who designed the White Temple. This place is fascinating, imaginative, and eclectic.
The next day, we picked up a self-guided walking map at the tourist office, and set off to explore Chiang Rai. We only got lost once, which is pretty good considering there's no English signage (except for the photos on the left and right).
The market district was bustling and colourful.
The golden clocktower, Betty Boop Café (undrinkable), and the Brahman Shrine.Later that day, we took a VERY local bus to Chiang Khong, which would be our gateway to the mighty Mekong and Laos. The bus looked like it had been through many wars, with layers of paint and padding falling off. Since there was no AC, both the front and back doors were kept open along the bumpy, dusty roads. People were sitting in the doorways to keep cool. Jeff and I preferred to sit by the window, so that we would not fall out! There was a lot of jockeying for seats as single women got on - single men went to sit with other men, so that the women weren't compromised. Different culture.
There's not much to see in Chiang Khong except for the pretty sunset on the Mekong. We had fish and chips at the Hub Pub, owned by a British expat. The restaurant was packed with tourists (many backpackers) embarking for Laos the following day.
Unfortunately, there was not much to see for two long days while we slow-boated down the muddy, shallow river. The same dry landscape for endless hours. Villagers on slow boats travelling up and down the river. Monotony. I'm rather intrigued by other travellers' blogs about this experience. Many absolutely love the experience. There was a British fellow on our boat who snapped over 600 photos on the first day! Over 1,000 by the time we reached Luang Prabang! And our friend, Joan M., enjoyed the ride so much that she did it again the following year.
Luckily the boat was not too crowded, so we had four seats (used-car surplus) and a small table to ourselves. No real coffee (instant, feh!), but tea bags a-plenty. The food was nondescript. Lots of overcooked vegetables and some fried fish. Jeff asked for hot sauce, of course. I passed the endless hours of boredom reading a terrific thriller, I am Pilgrim, by Terry Hayes. (Thanks again to Neil at the Grand Napat for passing it on to me). I made the 900 pages last for two days (like the oil for Chanukah). 
At some point during the first day, we stopped at a village. So very poor. Such beautiful children. Heartbreaking. I don't think any UNICEF funds have reached them.
More of the same the following day. Another poor village and more beautiful children. The school is far away, and there is little public transit, so the kids just frolic all day. When the tourists arrive, they follow them, begging. As in Cambodia, these kids are already organized into little gangs. I gave some money to a little girl who stole my heart. As soon as the money was in her hands, the gang leader, a boy of about 10, swooped down the steps and grabbed it from her.
Jeff and I tried hard not to dwell on what quality of life lay ahead for these children.
My favourite girl! I taught her and her friends how to call me Gramma! The kids shouted "one, two, three, Gramma". A lovely send-off as our boat continued its endless journey.
The last stop before reaching Luang Prabang was the Pak Ou Caves. The lower cave features hundreds of small, dusty, broken Buddhas. 
Our legs welcomed the climb to the upper cave. Good stretch after sitting for two days.
Late in the afternoon, we finally arrived in Luang Prabang. I was expecting a proper dock, but this is where we landed. Fortunately, we did not have to carry the luggage up this hill. Minivans dropped us all off at our hotels. We stayed at the Sanctuary Hotel. Very good location, very poor service. Compared with the villages along the way, life in LP is positively upscale! All the money has flowed into the city, as we've noticed when travelling in Third World countries. Warning to travellers: Luang Prabang is a lot more expensive than Thailand.
Aside from numerous temples (being "templed-out", we only visited the ones that were free of charge), there are a few other interesting sites in LP, notably the Royal Palace and Mount Phousi (sunset). We had some amazing meals, which made the two-day visit worthwhile.
Some of my favourite pictures:
Local library (note the sign: they have a bookmobile that travels to the villages!)City streets.
Monks everywhere!Fruit sellers.
Night market (same stuff as Thailand, all made in China)
Reminder that we are in a Communist country.
One highlight was a visit to the Royal Palace. The last king abdicated in 1975 (he and his family were sent north to be re-educated; they died soon afterwards), and the government turned the palace into a museum. I'm surprised that they haven't removed the imposing statue of King Sisavang Vatthana. The collection of classic cars is impressive. Along the walls of the garage are large photos of the chauffeurs who ferried the royals around. 
A highlight for Jeff was the Buddhist Alms Giving Ceremony at dawn. Locals with their offerings sit quietly on the side of the road, waiting for the (200) monks to pass by. This tradition has been going on for hundreds of years.
French restaurants galore! Delicious lunch at Banneton. Dinner (the second night) at Blue Lagoon.
Mount Phousi at sunset. 350 steps to the top. Packed with tourists from all over the world. Unfortunately, a hazy night.
On to Hanoi the next morning. Our suitcases seemed to enjoy Laos a lot more than we did, so they remained there for another 12 hours. The very helpful staff at the LaRosa Hotel in Hanoi telephoned several times to ensure that our bags were on their way. When we returned from dinner later that night, there they were. Phew!
We only had half a day in Hanoi due to the aforementioned luggage delay at the airport, but we were centrally located, and fairly familiar with the city. We even remembered how to get to Bun Bo Nam Bo for lunch! Refreshed, I went off to a spa for a massage, while Jeff enjoyed the Fine Arts Museum. In addition to traditional pieces, there were contemporary politically-themed paintings.
We both loved the Thien Phuc Pagoda, which we discovered while walking to dinner. It's easy to miss, since its beautiful wooden door hides a garden of delights: a two-story building around a courtyard filled with flowers and Buddhas. Such a serene place!The purpose of our visit to Vietnam was to fill in some of the gaps: we had already been to Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Halong Bay, and (briefly) Hoi An. We decided to concentrate our eight days between Hue and Hoi An, leisurely experiencing this area.
Our Toronto friends, Judy and Bobby, recommended the Saigon Morin Hotel in Hue. It's a historic colonial hotel in beautiful condition (renovated 10 years ago). We had a huge, comfortable room down the corridor from the suite where Charlie Chaplin stayed in the 1920s!
Our first piece of business was to find a laundry, and to arrange tours to the emperors' tombs. Around the corner from our hotel was a small restaurant called Stop and Go. Not only did they serve a decent lunch, but they also did our laundry and arranged for a private guide to the tombs! While we were dealing with them, we also hired a driver to take us to Hoi An four days later.
The next morning, we set off to see two royal tombs and a famous pagoda.
Emperor Khai Dinh (KD, no relation ...), was the 12th Emperor of the Nguyen dynasty. He ruled from 1916-25, and was very unpopular. Nationalists accused him of selling out his country to the French, and living in imperial luxury while the people were exploited by France. In 1919, at the behest of the French, KD decreed that Vietnam cease to use Chinese as the official written language. It was replaced by Romanized Vietnamese.
KD's tomb took eleven years to build (1920-1931).Unfortunately, the Emperor died in 1925 at the age of 40. The tomb is built on the slope of a mountain. The view is spectacular. There's even a gigantic goddess in the distance to add spiritual effect.
To say the tomb elaborate is an understatement. Every inch of the interior is covered in tile or fabric. It's dazzling!
Dozens of stone soldiers guard the tomb.
In summary: WOW!
Minh Mang was the second Emperor of the Nguyen dynasty (1820-1841). Unlike KD, he was revered for his opposition to French involvement in Vietnam, as well as his Confucian orthodoxy. MM died at age 49, a year before his tomb was finished. The tomb is much more traditionally designed than KD's. 
The setting for this tomb is just beautiful - on the banks of a quiet river.
Our last stop of the day was the Thien Mu Pagoda (Pagoda of the Celestial Lady), which dates back to the 17th century.
Jeff is standing next to an 18th century bell that weighs over 3200 kg! I'm rubbing the marble turtle, a symbol of longevity.
On a sad note, the pagoda served as a major organizing point of the Buddhist movement against President Diem, who showed favouritism towards Catholics and discrimination against Buddhists in the army and public service.
This site also houses the car in which Thich Quang Duc was driven to his self-immolation in Saigon in 1963. This was the first of a series of self-immolations by Buddhist priests, which brought the plight of the Buddhists to international attention.
We travelled back to the Imperial Palace along the river in a boat taxi, but opted to tour that site the following day. It was nice to have the luxury of time. 
One of our guides in Vietnam told us that the Vietnamese like people from everywhere, even the French and Americans. The one exception is the Chinese, in spite of the fact that both countries are communist. Knowing that, Jeff and I spoke in low voices while walking through the Imperial City the next day. It is almost a carbon copy of the Forbidden City in Beijing, but it is impolite to comment on the Chinese influence. Emperor Gia Long, the first Nguyen emperor, built the City at the beginning of the 19th century. Originally, there were 160 buildings on the site. Tragically, during the Tet Offensive in 1968, the heavy fighting and bombing destroyed all but 10 buildings. The buildings that remain are being restored.
A few more photos of the Imperial City. 
Later that afternoon, we walked through the campus of Quoc Hoc High School for the Gifted. Founded in 1896, it is one of the top three high schools in Vietnam. Ho Chi Minh was dismissed from it in 1908 (age 18).
The heavy rains came the next day. We were happy that we had already seen the major sites. Jeff set out with his umbrella to see another pagoda, while I decided to mosey around the shops. I soon took refuge in a café, and ran back to the hotel shortly afterward. Jeff had already returned, soaking wet. We hung our clothes up to dry, and decided not to venture out of the hotel until the storm had passed. We had vermicelli soup for lunch to warm us up, and then watched the movie Indochine in the lounge (until we got bored). 
The road trip from Hue to Hoi An took most of the next day, since we made quite a few interesting stops. Just of the outskirts of Hue, our driver stopped to let us take some photos of the families who live on the river. These are among the poorest of the Vietnamese.
We continued our drive along the Hai Van Pass, which climbs through the Annamite Range. There have been some horrific traffic accidents along this road, but these days, it is used for tourist cars and buses, with local traffic diverted through the brand new Hai Van Tunnel. Even though we didn't have a clear day, the views were amazing!
Tour buses stop at the top of the pass. There are temples and lots of ruins from the American War.
The pass eventually leads to Da Nang. I couldn't get over the garish Dragon Bridge spanning the Han River. Unfortunately, we did not get to see it lit up or breathing fire at night. We spent some time in the Museum of Cham Sculpture, learning about this civilization, which flourished between 500-1500 CE. The sandstone sculptures are primitive, but impressive.
Our next stop was China Beach, so named by the Americans during the War. It's where the American military spent their R&R. As mentioned earlier in this blog, the Vietnamese loathe the Chinese, therefore they only refer to this beach by its various Vietnamese names.On the way to the Marble Mountains, our driver insisted on stopping at one of the numerous stone sculpture factories. The white statues were enormous - I tried to explain to the driver that contrary to his opinion that all North Americans live in mansions, these sculptures wouldn't quite fit into our condo. (Nor would they fit into our suitcase!)
The Marble Mountains are a cluster of five marble and limestone hills near Da Nang. They are named after the five elements. Mt. Thuy (water) is the only one open to tourists. We took the lift to the top, and then wormed our way down, passing temples and many caves. Although this is very close to China Beach and the American Air Field, the Americans were unaware of the cave structure where the Viet Kong had even set up a hospital!
A spiritual place, but also a site for adventure: the kids were learning to scale the rocks. I was too nervous to watch.
Hoi An is a beautiful place, famous for its old town and its gastronomy. From the 15th to 19th centuries, Hoi An was a central trading place for Chinese and Japanese merchants. The architecture of the well-preserved (UNESCO World Heritage) buildings is chiefly Chinese-style (shophouses - stores on ground floor, living quarters above). The main attraction is the covered Japanese Bridge (16th-17th century).
We stayed at a beautiful hotel, the Vinh Hung Riverside Resort, recommended by Janice and Ted. Although the rooms were basic (with pretty touches), the grounds were lush, the breakfasts good, the location was both picturesque and very close to the old town. The highlight of this resort is its Happy Hour (which the hotel calls its "countryside market") from 4-5 daily. A guitarist quietly strummed while guests of the hotel sampled absolutely delicious Vietnamese "tapas". A great way to chill after a day of touring. Each evening, the hotel offers a complementary boat ride on the Thu Bon River (we only took it once). A lovely way to see the residential areas on the other bank. Our kind of perfect accommodation!
Cooking classes are so much fun!! Our Morning Glory class was terrific. Before the class, we toured the local market, and then sampled lots of goodies at the various food stations in the restaurant. The cooking class took place in a modern, bright classroom. The teacher laughed at my non-existent chopping skills, and oohed and aahed at Jeff's mastery! Vietnamese food is absolutely delicious - lemon grass, cilantro, basil. Yum.
While I'm talking about food, we would highly recommend a restaurant that we ate at twice. The food at Nu Eatery (their website is on Facebook) is creative and delicious. Our little friend wanted to share our desserts, but we shooed him/her away.
Some photos from our walk through the old town. Our entrance fee allowed access to several houses and temples.
On one of our days in Hoi An, we hired a driver to take us to My Son. My Son is a cluster of of abandoned and ruined Champa temples, built between the 4th and 14th centuries. My Son was a religious site, dedicated to the worship of the god, Shiva. A single week of U.S. carpet bombing during the American War destroyed the majority of these buildings. There are still many land mines, and visitors are strictly forbidden to stray from the prescribed path. (I sure am glad that there has been no destruction of this magnitude at Angkor in Cambodia)
My Son is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and, as a result, there is a lot of restoration work going on. There are still many temples that haven't been uncovered, such as the one on the right.We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Vietnam, and would love to return again to discover the northern parts of this beautiful country. We ended our 7-week holiday in Hong Kong, hiking (of course!) and hanging out with good friends.
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