Hong Kong consists of many parts: there's Hong Kong Island (where we live), Kowloon across Victoria Harbour, the New Territories (north of Kowloon bordering with mainland China), and the numerous outlying islands in the South China Sea. I normally spend my days on HK Island, since most of my activities take place around "Central". Unlike other large cities where there is only one major "downtown", HK has several including Central (10 minute walk from our apartment), Causeway Bay east of Central (where Jeff works), and Tsim Sha Tsui (a.k.a. TST) across the water in Kowloon. Weeks can go by without us venturing across the water to TST, but last week was an exception, since we ferried back and forth many times.
Although the MTR (subway) joins the island with Kowloon, I enjoy taking the old Star Ferry instead. The Ferry has been operating since 1880, and runs every 10 minutes. The boats are two-story green and white old creaky things, but riding them is touristy and fun. The regular fare is 2HKD (25cents CDN), and seniors ride for free! The crossing takes 10 minutes, and feels like a holiday treat.
Last Thursday, I ferried across and met Hanora for lunch at Harbour City (Harbour City), the largest shopping mall in HK. Since I arrived early (typical Dale!), I had time to browse my favourite store: Uniqlo, the Japanese equivalent to Old Navy. Much more affordable than LV, Chanel, and Bulgari. After lunch, we walked to the Museum of History to see an exhibit called "The Evergreen Classic - Transformation of the Qipao" (qipao). There were almost 300 dresses on display, arranged in chronological order from the 1880s to present day. The dresses were originally ceremonial, made of the most exquisite silk, and delicately embroidered. They evolved into everyday street wear (Suzie Wong), and have now become ceremonial again. Jeff's colleague, Ai Ling, told us she has a collection of qipao that she only wears for Chinese New Year. I enjoyed watching the older HK ladies taking in the exhibit, and marvelled at how shabby they now look in their comfortable blouses and loose slacks, instead of the elegant and flattering qipao. I wonder if they have any regrets.
Jeff and I boarded the Ferry again on Saturday morning. We were on a mission to find his shaving cream. Yes, I know this sounds ridiculous, but I have mentioned in previous blogs how challenging it is to find some everyday Western items. The cream (Kent shaving cream) is a British product. Jeff emailed the company and was given two addresses in TST. Our first destination was a shop in the New World Centre (a very large office building with shops on the lower floors). We made our to the building only to find it boarded up with guards outside shooing us away. Since we do not read Chinese, we are not sure if the building is being renovated or demolished. As a result, we headed to the second address on Jeff's list. It turned out to be a bare door on the 16th floor of a small office building on a small side street. What a scavenger hunt! When we got off the elevator, a woman appeared from another apartment and told us that this is the distribution office only, not a shop (at least that's what I think she said). She sent us to Fanda, a large pharmacy on Nathan Road (the main drag), where lo and behold Jeff found his cream! Mission accomplished.
On Saturday evening, we ferried once again. This time our destination was TST and the Star Ferry Harbour Tour. A few months ago, Jeff got a coupon entitling us and two guests to a free ride on this tour. We took David and Donna along, and just relaxed and chatted, while the rest of the passengers (Japanese tourists) took their photos. Amazing how blase we've become about the beauty of HK at night. We decided that this boat ride is definitely not going to become part of the Biteen HK tour! After the ride, we walked to Temple Street night market, and had a yummy dinner outside. The dai pai dongs (outdoor cafes) on Temple Street are not fancy, but Jeff and I agree that they serve the best Cantonese food we've tasted so far.
More ferry rides on Sunday! I joined some of the Y girls, and we ferried to Peng Chau, a very small island off Lantau (the large island that houses the airport, the big Buddha, and lots of suburban residential communities). Armed with lots of sunscreen (45+), hats and good shoes, we set off on a two-hour walk around the island. I led the way, following the route in my Leisurely Hiker's Guide to Hong Kong. All was fine until we took a wrong turn and ended up being chased by a large, black, barking, scary-looking dog. A lady and her elderly mother soon followed. They shooed away the dog, and pointed us in the right direction to the path. I asked the younger woman if I could take their picture, and she smiled and said okay, while the older woman snarled and yelled! She was still swearing as I ran down the path. (I suppose she thought my camera had stolen her soul). There are lots of small organic farms on the island, and they provide their vegetables to the HK markets. 
When we reached the town at the end of the walk, we noticed a lot of colourful decorations and preparations for the Hungry Ghost festival. This festival is different from the spring and autumn festivals where living descendants pay homage to their deceased ancestors. On Ghost Day, the deceased are believed to be visiting the living! Coincidentally, I recently finished the book The Hungry Ghosts by Anne Berry. Residents were sitting in the shade folding paper "money" to burn later that evening at the local temple. Near the ferry dock, we came across a mural advertising a local cafe. I never expected to see this on a remote island in HK! Unfortunately, the cafe was closed.
Monique organized a junk boat outing yesterday (Saturday). It poured all day Friday, so we were concerned that a) the trip would be cancelled, or b) we would be sitting on a boat in the heavy rain in the middle of the South China Sea. Luck was on our side - the heavy rain warning was lifted before we left, and we spent a great day on the boat and beach near Sai Kung (middle right-hand side of the map). When we are very rich ... we'd love to live there in a house overlooking the water, but we'd need a car and chauffeur, too, since Sai Kung is quite far from central HK. Wishful thinking! The day was very relaxing, and the food and young company were great, but I'm all ferried-out, and will stick to terra firma for the next few weeks.
Shana tova to all our Jewish family and friends (5771). We wish you a happy, healthy, and sweet year.
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